(A word of caution for anyone wishing to navigate the world of zinfandel. Some Californian zinfandels are made by people who think that sweetness, fruit, and alcohol content are virtues in wine and some of the zinfandels I’ve drank have been labeled with alcohol levels as high as 16.9%. Potent stuff. Be careful.)

In the panoply of Californian zinfandel producers, 4 are generally accorded ‘benchmark’ by aficionados: Ridge Vineyards, Rosenblum Cellars, Ravenswood, and Rafanelli. Rosenblum is perhaps most famous, if only by virtue of distribution, as they claim distribution in all 50 states and several other nations. Ravenswood also has attained widespread distribution, and Ridge is also well known and distributed on a smaller scale to most major markets. Rafanelli alone is a small producer, producing one highly desired bottling and nothing else that I am aware of that is distributed.

My experiences with all of these producers has been invariably positive. I think that a 2003 Rafanelli might have been my first experience with a really good zinfandel, though after that I quickly made my way through other well-known bottlings from Limerick Lane, Rombauer, Cline Cellars, etc, etc. My impression of Ravenswood particularly focuses on a recently consumed bottle of their 1992 single vineyard production zinfandel (which vineyard it is escapes my mind, though the wine was superb). In the Columbia market, Ridge probably dominates the higher-end consumption; they produce fewer wines, including one cabernet sauvignon based wine (Monte Bello) that a small but vocal group of aficionados claim is the greatest American wine.

But zinfandel producers of course, are not homogenous. Though it’s my impression that the majority of producers strive for richness and weight in their zinfandels, the grape can produce wines of great finesse and delicacy, though to tease out  those nuances requires substantial skill in both the vineyard and the winery. The reality of zinfandel is that it really is a sensitive, finicky grape, and to produce top quality fruit is difficult.

Rosenblum particularly has chosen to focus on their relationships with roughly 30 vineyard plots from various places around California, from Sonoma to Paso Robles; for people wishing to embark on the slow (and hangover-prone) journey through Californian zinfandel, their bottlings are a good place to start. Winemaker Kent Rosenblum is known for attention to detail and the patience to eschew automated manipulations of their single vineyard wines, favoring balance in his wines. Barrel regimens are usually a blend of oak from America, France, Hungary, Russia, and other places, though the intention with oak is to not leave dominant barrel flavors. In my experience Rosenblum wines have have managed to remain consistently good and reasonably priced (it helps that the winery does not have the heavy mortgage and debt burden that many newer wineries have).

We’ve obtained some 20 cases of the 2006 Rosenblum production; along with several single-vineyard zinfandels we  also have obtained some of their petite sirah and roussane (a white Rhone varietal that is known for its brisk, minerally quality and herbal flavors). If you’re interested in tasting these wines, we’re currently pouring one or two of the single vineyard 2006 zinfandels at the bar this weekend or you can call us at 573-442-2207 for more information about obtaining specific bottlings.

Advertisement