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Cuatro Pasos Mencia 2007, Bierzo DO ($14): The Mencia grape is one of three red grapes permitted in wines from Bierzo (aside from 15% of experimentally allowed varieties). It tends to produce lighter, aromatic wines, but this effort made for importer Eric Solomon’s European Cellars, shows a little more depth with an attractive smokiness and complex aromas of dark blue and black fruits, crisp acidity, with mild tannin and a smooth, polished texture. Alcohol is a manageable 14%. Jay Miller in the Wine Advocate rates the wine 90 points.
Bierzo, located in north-west Spain, in the larger region of Castile & Leon, has a long history. Like most Spanish wine regions, wines produced here overdeliver on quality and distinctiveness for the price; the region has been producing wines since the Romans introduced grapes and wine production. Here is Eric Asimov in the NYT on Bierzo wines.
Anciano Tempranillo Reserva 2003, Valdepenas DO ($13): This is good tempranillo (Spain’s signature grape), though unlike most wines I drink, it’s been oak matured for 5 years, probably in barrels that have been used previously (most modern wines spend a maximum of 3 years in oak, and new oak is used relatively sparingly). Smooth, with soft tannins and a plump, round texture support well integrated flavors of cherry, vanilla, smoky earth, and hints of cocoa. The wine is imported by Well-Oiled Wines.
Valdepenas is in south central Spain, in the larger region of Castile-La Mancha. Winemaking was introduced by invading Roman legions and the region is famous for fermentations that took place in large earthenware vats that were partially underground. Fortunately, winemaking in the region now predominantly occurs using modern innovations like stainless-steel vats and the wines that are exported also present commendable quality for the price.
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